How To Replace Washing Machine Bearings?

Drum bearings are located at the rear of the drum and allow the inner drum unit to rotate smoothly. To make sure you’re on the correct track, here are some indicators that your drum bearings need to be replaced:

During a cycle, the machine makes a lot of noise, especially when spinning.
If the inner drum moves faster than the outer tub.

There’s no need to fear if you need to replace the drum bearings but aren’t sure where to begin. We’ll show you how to replace the drum bearings without causing damage to your washing machine.

You may need to purchase the front bearing, rear bearing, and bearing seal separately, or you may be able to get them all together as a bearing and seal kit, depending on the specific model of washing machine you have.

Removal and Replacement Of Bearings

  1. Using a socket wrench with a long extension, remove the bolts that secure the top part of the housing to the bottom half. Remove the old rubber seal from the groove on the flange around the bottom half after separating the two sections.
  2. Flip the inner housing over and place the woodblocks on the outer edge. Allow 15 minutes for penetrating oil to soak into the inner lip of the bearing connecting to the driveshaft. Place the flat side of a wood plank on top of the driveshaft and smash the plank two or three times until the driveshaft and inner tub fall out. Remove the inner half to reveal the driveshaft, which is held in place by a huge three-armed aluminum bracket known as a spider.
  3. Carefully inspect the spider and driveshaft. Remove the six bolts attaching the spider to the inner tub and replace it with a new tub spider and driveshaft if the spider is shattered or the shaft is damaged or heavily pitted. Alternatively, if the tub passes inspection, use a wire brush to clean the shaft and spider and relocate the tub to one side.
  4. Place the tub housing’s outer half on the blocks, with the flange on top. With the flat-head screwdriver, lever out the bearing seal. Remove all rust from the bearing cavity and squirt penetrating oil around the bearing’s outer edge. Allow 15 minutes before turning the housing over. Carry on with the process on the inside side.
  5. Clean both sides of the housing and wipe out all traces of penetrating oil from the bearing cavity. To remove any leftover grit and rust residue, scrub the inside of the chamber vigorously with a brass or stiff-bristle nylon brush. It is not recommended to use a steel wire brush.
  6. To act as a lubricant, smear a film of dishwashing liquid around the outside face of both new drum bearings. To line up the outer bearing, place it in the cavity and lightly hammer the outer edge with a rubber mallet. Continue lightly striking the outer edge with a brass punch or a wooden dowel and hammer until the bearing’s top is flat with the surrounding surface.
  7. Flip the housing over and repeat the process with the inner bearing. When the outside edge of the bearing collides with the step inside the cavity, the bearing comes to a halt. Apply a thin application of dishwashing liquid to the new bearing seal’s outside face. Carefully place the seal within the cavity and press it in with your thumbs until it is flush with the surrounding surfaces.
  8. Raise the inner drum and align the shaft with the bearing seal hole. Carefully lower the drum until the driveshaft’s end fits into the bearings. Press down on the drum until it comes to a halt. To make sure the drum is correctly inserted, spin it.
  9. Replace the rubber drum housing seal in the groove inside the outer housing’s rim. Lower the upper portion into place, making that the bolt holes are lined properly.
  10.  Using the socket wrench and extension, thread all of the perimeter bolts in and tighten them down. Tighten all nuts equally as you work your way around the edge.
  11. Reverse the previous steps to reinstall the drum housing and reassemble the machine.

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